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The stunning Saumur on the Loire river is home to just under 30,000 inhabitants. The conservative town council are dedicated to preserving the town’s squeaky-clean image, even to the extent of making beggars illegal. The town comes out in a very different light, however, in Balzac’s acclaimed, dark novel, Eugenie Grandet. Saumur is overshadowed by the towering presence of its charming Chateau.
The Chateau de Saumur, built under Louis XI, is distinguished by its four towers, which gracefully rise up into the sky above the town. It was first transformed into a prison then a barracks and now it is used by three museums. The first is for horses and teaches equine history from around the world, the second is for decorative arts and the third covers toys and is sure to enthral visitors of all ages.
Saumur has been through a eventful history. Between the 9th and 13th Centuries, control over the town was constantly swapping between different regional powers until eventually it was retained by the House of Anjou. Its peak arrived in the early 17th Century when it became one of the great centres of Protestantism. A Protestant academy was formed and the general assembly of the Protestant churches met here. Louis XIII became nervous at the strength of their support in Saumur and so ordered the demolition of the town walls.
The historic centre of Saumur is to be found between the castle and the bridge. Most of the buildings are medieval, although you’ll certainly find a few surprises along the way. Three kilometres to the west of the town centre you’ll find the highly respected Ecole Nationale d’Equitation where some of the best horses, riders and instructors are geared for competition level. You can book a tour to show you around the largest indoor riding arena in Europe and witness an elite ‘Cadre Noire’ training session.
Saumur is known the most for its stunning countryside that is home to some of the most impressive caves in the country. They are certainly put to good use by storing wine and growing mushrooms. A staggering 70% of France’s button mushrooms are produced here.
Your nearest airports are Nantes (Ryanair, Aer Arann), Tours (Ryanair) and Poitiers (Ryanair). If you’re a nervous flyer then there are plenty of other, more interesting ways to get to the town. The TGV rail network will take you from the UK to nearby Angers. The other option is to arrive by ferry and drive down. There are a number of ferry ports to choose from, the nearest being Cherbourg and St-Malo.
Property prices are rising across the Loire Valley, although generally they are still sound investments and represent real value for money. There are a number of bargains to be found, particularly in properties needing renovation. The market is mainly dominated by the French, although nearby Parcay-les-Pins is remarkable for its nearly 40% British population.
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Saumur is located in the Pays De La Loire region, specifically in the south east of the Maine-et-Loire department near the capital Angers.
Saumur Property Map
Pays de la Loire Property Map
Maine-et-Loire Map
Population: 31,700
Access: The nearest airports are Poitiers, Tours and Nantes. The nearest TGV station is Angers.
Economy: Wine production, mushroom growing and other traditional industry.
Interesting fact: After swapping hands among a number of different powers, it eventually became a strong centre of Protestantism.
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